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The Wine Cellar: Resplendent Rhône Style Reds
If in pursuit of wines that are amiable, possess complex aromas, and dance with every red meat and grilled dish in the room, run to the Rhône Valley and New World “Rhône Style Blends” department of your local wine emporium. Syrah reigns king in Northern Rhône, and Grenache holds court in the south, while “New World” cousins in California, Washington and Australia are emphasizing ripe fruit and toned down tannins to create a luscious, youthful drink. It’s easy to be keen on the French classics; a reverence to signature varietal flavors and a growing availability of drinkable great wine values are appreciated. Happily, “more modern” styles are also evolving, and the wines to covet are the ones from producers that reflect origin through pure flavors while conveying its connection to the soil.
On the subject of great wine values, consider Perrin Côtes-du-Rhône AOC Réserve ($10.00/btl.), a composition of Grenache plus equal parts Syrah and Mourvédre from the venerable Châteauneuf-du-Pape house of Château de Beaucastel. Juicy blackberry and cherry fruit are balanced with hints of herb and black pepper; overall, a smooth and nimble wine.
Another plum French selection is Féraud-Brunel Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages AOC ($15.00/btl.), a medium bodied blend of primarily Grenache and Syrah that exudes an exotic range of wild berries, black cherries and earthiness. Again, historic pedigree prevails with this joint venture between vignerons Laurence Féraud of Domaine de Pegau and André Brunel of Domaine les Cailloux. Enjoy now with slightly more robust country fare.
Lately, Syrah has surged in popularity among California growers, and in the hands of
thoughtful winemakers, fine examples are entering the market. Cline “Cashmere” California Red ($14.00/btl.), a silky combination of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvédre reveals big raspberry, cherry and chocolate notes with undertones of plum and black pepper. And, thanks to irrepressible winemaker Randall Graham, adventurous Rhône style wines have had a loyal following for years. Bonny Doon “Le Pousseur” Central Coast Syrah Blend ($22.00/btl.), Syrah with a splash of Grenache elicits poetry in a glass and is perfect with roasted meats, wild salmon and foraged mushrooms. Vibrant complexity of bramble berries, game and spice rounds out this unaffected expression of varietals and place. Qupé also produces exceptional wines in the $17.00-40.00 range.
For avid Rhône style wine lovers, consider boutique wines from Edmunds St. John (www.edmundsstjohn.com; $15.00-30.00/btl.) purchased via California merchants. Husband and wife team Steve Edmunds and Cornelia St. John have been devoted to creating first rate wines in California since 1985. Edmunds St. John “That Old Black Magic” California Red ($20.00/btl.) is handcrafted from three cuvées of Syrah and Grenache from vineyards in Mendocino and El Dorado Counties. This beauty resonates with berries, dried florals, pepper, sage and licorice on the nose and palate. Delight in this wine over an evening or several days; it is well worth the effort to track down these gems.
Embrace the character, complexity and richness of Rhône wines and welcome true interpretations of these remarkable varietals produced outside of France. May we all discover wines that are thrilling to smell and unforgettable to taste.
