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The Wine Cellar: Up the Pacific Coast – The Wines of Washington State
By Gordon Gilbert
California may be the undisputed king of wine production in the United States, but another serious contender has emerged thanks to its climatic conditions, huge swaths of land and ample sunlight throughout the growing season. Washington State ranks second in wine production in the U.S. and has managed to yield a wide array of grapes that don’t sacrifice quality for value.
Washington’s Cascade Mountains play a pivotal role in fostering the perfect climate for wine production with a rain shadow that shields their vineyards from the perpetual downpours of the Pacific Northwest. The rich soil and life giving irrigation of the Columbia River make this region a grape grower’s dream, while the high elevation brings additional summer sun that helps give the grapes extra time to ripen. Most of the mainstream varieties are found here with Italian and German varietals having made good headway in recent years. As more and more wineries pop up east of the Cascades, more nuance in terroir (the combination of location, soil and climate) is being discovered in the area, broadening the range of locales making a name for themselves.
The extra sun and absence of moisture in the rain shadow have proven ideal for Washington’s thick skinned red grapes, which in turn have produced robust red wines that have found great success among aficionados. Here are three amazing reds with great Pacific Northwest appeal:
Chateau St. Michelle Indian Wells; Columbia Valley ($14)
The perfect example of a great value Cabernet blend from an experienced winery that is known for benchmark quality. The blend is comprised of Cabernet, Syrah, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. Ripe and jammy in a new world style with deep, dark fruits that help hold the robust tannins in check. Strip steak accompanied by stuffed peppers makes for a perfect complement to this wine.
Kestrel Syrah; Yakima Valley ($20)
Crushingly good dark fruit flavors of blackberry, dark cherry and boysenberry syrup hang on the palate with this engaging Syrah. The fruitier aspects are subtly augmented with touches of spice, new oak and violas. This wine has the mass to tame roasted legs of lamb at any time of year.
Owen Roe Sinister Hand; Columbia Valley ($27)
This medium bodied blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre and Counoise mimics the wines of the Southern Rhone and serves as a great example of Washington’s offerings. The fruit is lush and black with plum at the forefront. Spices dominate the flavor profile with fresh cracked black pepper, anise, touches of cloves and cardamom. Pairs nicely with any grilled Mediterranean dish.
If your tastes swing more toward the white side of the fence, not to worry. Robust reds aren’t the only wines that have found a foothold in the Pacific Northwest scene. Cleanse your palate, give your glass a good rinse, then take advantage of this superb sampling of Washington whites.
Canoe Ridge Expedition Chardonnay; Horse Heaven Hills ($14)
For solid proof that Washington has a right to the silver medal for U.S. wine regions, look no further than this Chardonnay. Big and lush, this wine is geared to take on its big cousin to the south with tropical fruit, melon, vanilla, a creamy coating of butter and a hint of toffee. Grill up some chicken and serve it up on top of a nice Caesar salad for a dynamite food pairing.
Bridgman Riesling; Yakima Valley ($11)
Wine Spectator magazine bestowed a 92 point rating on this Riesling, cementing its place as one that true fans should not ignore. Bright and cheery in terms of acidity with an off-dry sweetness. Combinations of lime zest, tropical fruit and ripe peach fill every glass with sensational tastes and aromas. Grilled shrimp with chili flakes over a nice bed of greens might be in order here.
Wildhaven Pinot Gris; Columbia Valley ($10)
The humble Pinot Gris may be the most overlooked grape of the entire Pacific Northwest region. This medium bodied wine offers abundant sun drenched stone fruit with apricot and peach permeating a pleasant acidity. While it’s easy enough to enjoy on its own, it has an incredible range with multiple types of cuisine. Poultry, fish or other kinds of seafood should pair nicely.
While Napa may have the fanfare and Oregon carries its own big dose of notoriety, they certainly aren’t the only places on the Pacific Coast where you’ll find great wine. Washington has the perfect selection for any palate with a wide range of tastes to fit any wine lover’s bill.
