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The Wine Cellar: Naughty or Nice – Santa’s Wine List
By Gordon Gilbert
The holiday season is now in full swing, so it’s time to start making your list and checking it twice. Whether the names on your gift giving roll call have been on the good side or bad side, there is certainly a wine to be found in Santa’s bag of treats that’s perfect for each one of them.
Naughty
Capcanes Mas Donis Barica; Montsant, Spain; 2007 ($10)
This red wine hails from Catalonia in the north of Spain and has fantastic balance with plums, black cherry, red fruit and pepper. Predominantly Grenache (85%) with the remainder being Syrah, it’s a great value alternative to similar, more expensive propositions from nearby Priorat. Tannins and structure fall in the medium range, a great complement for burgers on the grill.
Indaba, Sauvignon Blanc; Western Cape, South Africa; 2011 ($8)
South Africa is another great destination for value oriented wines, particularly the Western Cape region, which is synonymous with good white wine. You’ll find a touch more body in their Sauvignon Blanc when compared to its New Zealand counterparts. Brisk refreshing acidity with fleshy notes of citrus and touches of green pepper match up nicely with a fresh green salad.
Not So Naughty
Molly Dooker, Shiraz, The Boxer; McLaren Vale, South Australia; 2010 ($19)
For those who love big, robust wines, look no further than this Shiraz from Molly Dooker (Australian slang for left-hander), with copious amounts of black fruit, including blackberry, blackcurrant and touches of Indian black pepper. Heavy tannins are offset by the lushness of warm fruit, making this weighty wine a nice pairing for an order of grilled lamb chops.
King Estate, Pinot Gris; Willamette Valley, Oregon; 2010 ($12)
While Oregon has gained much attention for its Pinot Noir, its cousin Pinot Gris is slowly emerging from the shadows. At times vastly superior to the abundant Italian Pinot Grigio that crowds most wine shelves, Oregon’s take is heavier than Italy’s and has a bracing acidity with notes of Anjou pear and Fuji apple. Smoked salmon with capers and dill is a culinary soul mate.
Nice
Chateau de Ferrand, St-Emilion Grand Cru; France; 2005 ($42)
A rich blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon with touches of cedar and light truffle notes. Solid tannins create a wonderful lengthy sensation on the palate. The 2005 vintage is hailed as one of the greatest in 50 years, which is reflected in prices for many 2005 Bordeaux wines. Those with more of a taste for new world wines will discover a marvelous complexity and nuance. Savor this one with a dinner that takes hours to prepare and just as long to enjoy.
Ridge, Chardonnay, Mountain Estate; Santa Cruz, California; 2009 ($36)
Ridge has been producing wines since the late 1960s and took part in the famous “Judgment of Paris,” where American wines beat out French counterparts in a blind tasting as seen in the movie Bottle Shock. Ridge Chardonnay is the epitome of the classic Californian food wine with a rich, full intensity accompanied by touches of navel orange, cantaloupe and delicate caramel. All that exquisite fullness is offset by an acidity that adds to the complex nature of the wine.
That Special Someone
Nicolas Feuillatte Palmes D’or Brut Vintage; 1999 ($100)
Pour yourself a glass of this wine to experience a lovely, delicate quality with effervescence focused on the front palate. Lying behind this are rich notes of brioche, pear, hints of citrus, acacia and ginger. The unmistakable packaging supposedly represents the black pearls worn by an early love of Nicolas Feuillatte. You can’t ask for a more perfect wine to ring in the new year.
A great wine makes a perfect gift for just about any friend, no matter their disposition. Naughty or nice, there’s a perfect wine out there for them. If you’re lucky, they might even share their gift with you, a gesture that could move a former Grinch right to the top of the nice list for next year.