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The Wine Cellar: Chill Concoctions for Hot Summer Soirees
By Gordon Gilbert
The dog days of summer are upon us. By now, you’ve probably had your fill of ice cold beers and frosty cocktails, but have you indulged in sangria yet? An invigorating wine punch with roots that go back to Portugal and Spain, sangria is an exceptional addition to summer soirees, providing refreshment that lingers on into our warm autumn months. Here are three ways to enjoy sangria from now until the chill of November approaches, made with wines that can easily stand alone.
To start with a play on the traditional red sangria, Balaclava will provide a crisp daytime concoction and leave a fantastic bordeaux to enjoy with chargrilled steaks later in the evening. Prepare by combining 25 ounces bordeaux wine, 1 thinly sliced cucumber, the juice of two lemons and 1 ounce simple syrup in a bowl. In the same bowl, suspend a sieve containing the thinly pared peel of half a lemon. Place the bowl and sieve in the refrigerator to infuse for an hour. Remove the sieve and add plenty of ice, 25 ounces mineral water and 25 ounces sparkling wine.
Chateau Haut Mazeris Cannon-Fronsac 2003 ($20/btl.) is a voluptuous bordeaux for Balaclava, with notes of mocha, dark fruit and sweet tannins that linger on the palate. Another choice, this one from the Entre-Deux-Mers region of Bordeaux, is the 2006 Château La Grange Clinet ($16/btl.). Blackberry, black currant and a touch of spice give way to medium tannins in this incarnation of red wine. For the sparkling wine, Crémant d”Alsace Brut Lucien Albrecht Rosé ($15/btl.) is perfect as both a mixer and a stand-alone. Made from 100% pinot noir grapes, it has a soft salmon hue and yields touches of raspberry and air dried strawberry. If rosé is not for you, Francois Montand Brut Blanc de Blancs ($15/btl.) from Gascony is an ideal substitute. This wine will match white fish pleasantly and can hold its own as a tasty aperitif.
Next up, the oft forgotten white sangria, or Sangria Blanca. The mix is light, bright, delicate and perfect for soaring temperatures. Peaches and banana give the punch all the texture it needs, and as an added bonus, should things get out of hand, the stains are easier to remove than the red alternative! For pitcher perfect Sangria Blanca, start by mixing a batch of banana puree. Liquefy two bananas, 1/3 cup of ice and 1/3 cup of water in a blender, then strain through a very fine sieve. Combine the puree with 25 ounces dry white wine, 8 ounces peach nectar, 17 ounces white grape juice, 3 tablespoons Cointreau and sliced peaches, bananas and lemons. Stir well and chill in the refrigerator overnight. Add ice cubes just prior to service in a large bowl.
Miguel Torres Gran Viña Sol Penedès 2008 ($14/btl.), produced in Penedès just outside Barcelona, is wonderful in Sangria Blanca, but also makes a beautiful match with poached prawns and cannellini bean salad. Made predominantly from chardonnay and a touch of parellada, it has a deeper gold color and exposes mild tropical fruits to crisp, old world acidity. If a lighter-bodied wine with hints of citrus fruit is what you savor, then Pazo Serantellos Albariño 2009 ($11/btl.) will fit the bill. It is clean, brisk and excellent with shellfish.
If you simply cannot wait overnight, or have last minute guests, a Portonic is a quick fix. Initially created to combat the heat of a Portugese summer, it can be poolside ready in minutes. Simply combine 2 ounces of dry white port, 4 ounces tonic water and ice for an individual serving. For the port, try Taylor Fladgate Chip Dry White Port ($20/btl.), a velvety variety filled with notes of melon and honey. With a touch of tartness to it, this port pairs nicely with almost any lemon-forward dish.
When temperatures soar, let your palate go right along with it. Be bold and creative, mixing your favorite wines with equally agreeable fruits and juices. And of course, share your creations liberally with friends and family; you will surely find wondrous joys in the season.
Gordon Gilbert holds wine certifications from the Court of Master Sommeliers, Society of Wine Educators and the Culinary Institute of America. He has worked the floor as a sommelier for ten years and is currently pursuing his Master Sommelier certification. He can be reached at elgordo43@hotmail.com.
