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Daycations: A Step Back in Time – Coronado, California
By Aly Wagonseller
There’s something satisfying about slowing down. Taking time to notice the beauty in nature, architecture, the people around you. A time for relishing every breath without cluttering your mind with technology, office politics or being late to your next commitment. Our friends and family who vacationed in the late 1800s and early 1900s had it down. No Space Mountain or 3D motion machines. All they needed was a beautiful beach with an island-like atmosphere, a stimulating book or conversation, and the opportunity to explore. Times certainly have changed, but with destinations like Coronado, California you can still take that step back in time.
Back in the Day
Much of the allure and charm of today’s Coronado is attributed to a rich history of vision, hard work, bail outs, comebacks and of course a bit of scandal. Raised from a barren, desert-like neck of land where gentleman folk used to hunt jack rabbits for sport, the peninsula’s makings embodied the same entrepreneurial spirit of present day development icons. Elisha Babcock and Hampton Story, yesteryear’s Donald Trump and Steve Wynn, envisioned a posh resort and exclusive community of beach homes lining the beautiful sands along the Pacific, yet ran out of money in the process. Wealthy sugar magnate John Spreckels shared in their vision and had the money to see it through, finishing what is still the most iconic structure on this islandesque destination, the Hotel del Coronado resort.
A beautifully designed, wooden Victorian beach resort, the Hotel Del was the hub of wealthy vacationers, presidents and international dignitaries in the late 19th and early 20th centuries and is said to be where Wallis Simpson first worked her abdication worthy charm on Edward King of Wales. Lavish ballrooms, lookout points, boardwalks, bountiful gardens and eating facilities still exist in impressive condition, their wooden finishes and innovative peg and glue construction a fascinating point of interest. Catch a glimpse into the dream vacation of the past as pictures throughout the resort portray the hotel’s construction, the lives of the rich and famous and a modern day “glamping” development called Tent City where middle class vacationers summered in elaborate tents over a span of forty years.
As a tribute to its roots, the Babcock, Story and Spreckels names are prominently honored throughout the peninsula, branded on everything from gift stores to a lovely park that remains the center of a community whose historical buildings and character are ardently protected by its residents.
Getting the Experience
Though well steeped in history, there are plenty of modern day things to do at Coronado. Unique shops and trendy restaurants dot the city side of the bay off 1st and Ocean Blvd, where ferries run to and from San Diego, and a fabulous view of the Coronado Bay Bridge can be seen along the water front. You can rent bikes and book a riding tour of the 7 mile island loop, play golf, kayak or hop on a Segway and tool around the terrain. For something more romantic, take a sunset gondola ride in the beautiful Coronado Cays. But if slowing down, taking in the moment and enjoying a vacation free of contemporary distractions is your goal, it’s time to head to the opposite side of the city.
1906 Lodge
While the Hotel del Coronado was the impetus for the resort destination’s popularity, other lodging choices provide a private and personal opportunity to experience a local perspective on Coronado’s culture and history. No place exemplifies old school hospitality coupled with a commitment to preserving the architecture of Coronado more than the 1906 Lodge, located at 1060 Adella Avenue (619-437-1900). Built as a boarding house that fell into disrepair, the structure was painstakingly restored by four local couples bound by stringent regulations to keep the historical restoration guidelines of the area intact. Reintroduced as a bed and breakfast, the property is located in what feels like an old fashioned neighborhood, far enough from the main drag but within walking distance of the Hotel Del, the main beach, a variety of restaurants and other points of interest.
The vibe of the 1906 is relaxed, social, quaint and homey, yet indulgent when it comes to hospitality and attention to detail. Each evening, they offer wine and cheese tastings in their parlor filled with period furnishings, where guests can mingle and chat about daily activities or peruse a variety of books about the area’s history. Seventeen individually designed rooms are available, many surrounding a beautiful courtyard with seating areas, a water feature and gardens that are perfect for decompressing. Morning breakfasts are served in a common area dining room beautifully designed with an antique flair, offering gourmet selections that included an orange stuffed French toast served with berry coulis that rivaled the best restaurants in San Diego. It’s also nice that someone is always on hand to answer questions about local happenings and good eats that lie off the beaten path, as well as fill you in on the community’s rich past. Other accommodations in the area can be found at www.coronadovisitorcenter.com.
Touring Coronado
Coronado residents are very proud of their heritage and community, enthusiastically sharing their love of this little peninsula via several tours and designations. If you choose to walk the city on your own, you’ll notice several homes displaying metal signs declaring that naval aviators associated with the nearby Naval and Seal Training base have lived there, or currently still do. Others proudly display a paper ribbon for having the best flower gardens or landscaping, an award coveted by both business and residential property owners.
A variety of scheduled tours are also readily available, running year round and hosted by several different organizations dedicated to the preservation of the island-like surroundings. Headed by the Coronado Historical Association, the Hotel del Coronado Tour ($15.00) provides a glimpse into the construction of the hotel while elaborating on little known facts about the lives and scandals of visitors from the past. Reservations can be made by calling 619-437-8788. For architecture lovers, a Promenade Through the Past walking tour meets at the Museum of History and Art on Wednesdays at 2 pm. Participants meander throughout the downtown district, viewing iconic Victorian and California inspired homes and buildings, while learning the stories behind the façade. Call 619-437-8788 for reservations.
Arguably the most well rounded and entertaining tour is the Coronado Walking Tour ($12.00) which begins at the Glorietta Bay Inn, the former home of John Spreckels. This 90 minute tour covers everything Coronado, from stories of the Hotel Del to up to date information on the amazing beach houses that line the boardwalk, and even a stroll past the bright yellow home where L. Frank Baum penned The Wizard of Oz. Call 619-435-5993 for information.
The Beach
No visit to Coronado would be complete without spending a lazy day on the spectacular white sand dunes of Central Beach. Located adjacent to the Hotel del Coronado, the beach runs more than a mile long and has been touted as one of the best spots of its kind in the country. A boardwalk provides convenient access, with areas for surfing and dogs designated along the way.
We can learn a few things from vacationers of the past. There’s not always a need for speed, elaborate graphics and high tech gadgetry to enjoy a fun retreat. Sometimes it’s entertainment enough to simply unplug in a beautiful and thought provoking destination filled with warm people, gorgeous surroundings and a rich history of those with vision far beyond the day at hand.
