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The Wine Cellar: Wines in Tune with Autumn
By Michelle Morey
As days grow shorter and desert nights slightly cooler, envision substantial meals that still taste like summer, but offer a preview to autumn’s alchemy. While tomatoes and corn may still be worthy of a spirited final fling, winter squash, eggplant, peppers, leeks, apples and pears are sure to inspire in the months to come. With fall produce at its peak, carefully select wines to enliven and enhance flavors.
Crostini with spicy roasted eggplant spread accented with basil is a welcome greeting from the cook and an ideal aperitif nibble with a glass of Schramsberg Mirabelle MV Brut Rosé ($18.00/btl.). A lingering nose of florals, red berries, apples and hints of toasted brioche gives preview to an elegant sparkler from one of California’s finest producers; a much appreciated rosé with serious intentions and versatility.
Now that our appetite is primed, a platter of Fritto Misto–Calamari, scallops and lemon is ready for chilled bottles of Colterenzio Schreckbichl Alto Adige Pinot Grigio ($15.00/btl.). Green apple, citrus and minerality resound in this straight forward, medium-bodied wine from Alto-Adige, Northern Italy; a lovely partner for shellfish and seafood.
In anticipation of fall’s cornucopia of winter squash, delight in perfecting your favorite dishes. Pumpkin ravioli with walnuts, sage, brown butter and shaved parmesan cheese is sure to please with Girard Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($18.00/btl.). A bright palate of Meyer lemon, melon and apples are balanced by a creamy brulée finish. The richness of the pumpkin is countered by the brightness in the wine leaving one thankful for the harmonious marriage. Roasted acorn squash stuffed with apple smoked pork sausage lightly glazed with molasses comes to life with Francois Chidaine Vouvray Clos Baudoin ($25.00/btl.) from the Loire Valley, France. This is off-dry Chenin Blanc at its best; orange blossoms, pear and honey impeccably balanced with acidity are perfection with this expression of acorn squash.
Wild mushroom ragout over creamy polenta and Laetitia Arroyo Grande Valley Estate Pinot Noir ($20.00/btl.) create a comfort combination to be repeated. Mulberries, cherries and spiced plum framed by a suggestion of earthiness underscores mushrooms beautifully. If you favor heartier cuisine, collect like wines to complement. Château des Tours, Côtes-du-Rhône Réserve 2007 ($26.00/btl.) from France is a stunning accompaniment with braised pork, caramelized root vegetables and apples. Bramble berries, raspberry compote and savory notes of smoke and spice complete this portrait for enjoyment now and with modest aging. Cheers to the Reynaud family of Château Rayas where this wine originates. Additional selections to consider include Titus Napa Valley Zinfandel ($20.00/btl.) and Chappellet Napa Valley Mountain Cuvee Red Bordeaux Blend ($18.00/btl.). Winemaker Phillip Titus is applauded for these vivid wines, traditionally crafted and reflective of varietal and vineyard character.
Fall conjures remembrances of feasts, warmth and laughter with toasts to harvest and hearth. “Long life to the grape! For when summer is flown, the age of our nectar shall gladden our own.” –Lord Byron.
