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The Wine Cellar: Brunch Knows No Rules…
By Michelle Morey
Just for grins, ask random strangers for their definition of “brunch.” This hybrid meal truly breaks all the rules with its many variations. Foods that may or may not bear any relationship to one another, ranging from sweet to savory or a whimsical marriage of the two, provide an excuse to create a festive event. Boldly serve popovers and jam with garden peppers stuffed with salt cod, while imbibing drinks from all ends of the spectrum.
A terrific beginning to any interpretation of brunch is sweet ricotta fritters accented with lemon zest, pine nuts and powdered sugar with Gramona Imperial Cava Gran Reserva ($25.00/btl.) sparkling wine. Ripe apples, tea biscuits and spice waft from the glass, enticing one to sip often while enjoying these rustic donuts. For those who fancy mimosa, stock your cellar with Gruet NV Brut ($14.00/btl.) sparkling wine from New Mexico; crisp citrus notes enhanced by a fine mousse is perfect for sparkling wine cocktails paired with shortbread, muffins and scones.
For fans of omelets, frittatas and quiche of all varieties and international influence, keep a flush selection of white wine. Au Bon Climat Santa Barbara County Chardonnay ($17.00/btl.) is Burgundian in sensibility, but with a California bloom; brioche married with tropical fruit offers a delicate richness that bolsters eggs with seasonal vegetables. For outstanding white Burgundy value, consider Domaine de Roally Mâcon Viré-Clessé ($22.00/btl.); fresh and lively Chardonnay fruit coupled with deep mineral character and modest toasty oak. If a smattering of bacon, pancetta or Serrano ham is desired, dry and slightly off-dry Rieslings are in tune to counter-balance the smoked and dry aged attributes. Look to Germany, Alsace and Australia for inspiration and producers such as J.J. Prüm, Trimbach and Grosset Wines for consistent quality.
Escape to the sea with an afternoon brunch or Sunday lunch starter course of sautéed prawns in Pastis with lemon and cherry tomatoes. Chilled bottles of Bonny Doon Ca’ Del Solo Estate Albariño ($18.00/btl.) should be served as an apéritif and an inseparable component to the dish. Bracingly crisp citrus and hints of florals make this wine versatile and inviting with many cuisines.
With spring upon us, take advantage of our days in the sun with “al fresco” dining as often as possible. Seasonal salmon, Gulf Coast red snapper and young lamb will soon be the centerpiece to many outdoor affairs. Lighter-bodied single varietals and blended reds will surely complement these preparations. King Estate Oregon Pinot Noir ($22.00/btl.) offers a welcome drink with whole roasted salmon and steamed red snapper. Bright cherries, raspberries, rose, hints of spice and a soft finish complete this wine. As for that leg of lamb, look no further than Estancia Napa Valley Red Meritage ($27.00/btl.), a rich blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot exudes black cherries, herbal accents, chocolate and vanillin.
A fine old Basque saying, “To know how to eat and drink is to know enough” puts it all in perspective. Whether you enjoy brunch or Sunday lunch, gather often, embrace flavorful food and toast with earnest wines!
[LR1]White burgundy?
