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The Wine Cellar: Chardonnay Continues to Captivate
By Michelle Morey
The veracity of Chardonnay; growers easily cultivate it, winemakers fashion it with pleasure, and we all love to drink it. While Chardonnay appeals to most, there are some who have not yet experienced its candid glow.
Individual preferences, past tastings, and the breadth of wines available can certainly confound. Unravel confusion surrounding “noble” Chardonnay by first considering its chameleon-like qualities in the vineyard. Cool climate French vines hailing from Burgundy, Mâconnais and Chalonnaise produce dry wines that reveal green apples, pears, pronounced acidity and minerality, where warmer climes in parts of California and Australia showcase pineapple, melon and peach fruit tones with hints of honey. Geography, weather, expressive winemakers and vignerons who respond to market predilections coalesce to produce wines for all consumers.
If budget permits, varietal purists salute a handful of outstanding white Burgundy domains; Colin-Deléger, Comtes Lafon and Michel Niellon ($50.00/btl.). While these trophies are extraordinary, indulge in generic and village appellation wines when possible. Most paramount producers market a Bourgogne Blanc from younger vines or lesser vineyards. The standard of care is high and the quality exceptional; Denis Mortet Bourgogne Blanc ($30.00/btl.). Morey-Coffinet Chassagne-Montrachet “Les Houillères” ($45.00/btl.) is an excellent village choice; granny smith apples, Anjou pears and hints of almond pair superbly with roast chicken and risotto primavera. Also, seek out gems from Mâconnais such as Domaine de Roally Viré-Clessé ($22.00/btl.), the perfect quaff with platters of calamari and prawns. Burgundy can be perplexing, but local wine merchants are eager to assist and the journey is worthwhile.
Many turn with gratitude to consistent, standardized wine brands from California and Australia. Beaulieu Vineyards, Kendall Jackson, Rosemount Estates and Lindemans all produce quality wines at every price point. Kendall Jackson “Grand Reserve” ($14.00/btl.) is comprised of equal parts Santa Barbara and Monterey County grapes. Ripe pineapple, mango, citrus, fine acidity and a creamy texture make this a remarkable value. Lindemans Bin 65 ($6.00/btl.) from Australia is internationally rated as worthy for the money and highlights melon, peach and tropical expressions.
Regardless how adaptable Chardonnay is in the vineyard, California recognizes Sonoma Coast, Russian River Valley, Los Carneros, Mendocino County, Anderson Valley, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley, Santa Rita Hills, and Arroyo Grande Valley as viticultural areas keenly suited to this varietal. For an opulent, richly flavored Chardonnay, select Acacia Carneros ($14.00/btl.); the result of meticulous care in the vineyard and winery. If your inclination is family tradition, reverence to sustainable farming, and Burgundian methods of winemaking, select Talley Estate Arroyo Grande Valley ($22.00/btl.). Layers of citrus, green apple, spice and toasted nuts complete this picture perfect reflection of the South Central Coast.
Diversity is the heart and soul of wine, and winemakers are challenged to establish their own territorial and varietal taste. Where the market place has profoundly affected the once straight-forward winemaking equation, thankfully, happy consumers and those dedicated to excellence have the final word. Chardonnay round the world is wonderfully unique, and in the end, it comes down to the simplicity of conscientious farming and honest winemaking. Cheers to our bounty of choices!
