The BYO Burger…Grind Burger Bar and Lounge
By Aly Wagonseller
When questioning the originality of the newest build-your-own burger craze, I found myself reminiscing of a place I used to frequent in the mid 1980s called Flakey Jake’s. A casual little burger and beer joint, Flakey’s was famous for their juicy burgers and a big ol’ do it yourself salad bar of fixins. Toppings consisted of garden variety chili, processed cheese slices, tin flavored olives and jalapeños, and pretty much anything else that was thrifty, yet managed to compliment a hamburger patty. There was nary an inkling of impending gourmet flair, yet even back then, the place was packed with diners that craved something a little more “their way” than the clown or king could offer.
Fast forward to now, a time when even a simple hamburger is expected to delight, ala five star status, and it’s really no wonder that the craze for building your own burger has suddenly reemerged, albeit with a serious price tag. Enter Grind Burger Bar and Lounge, a polished little place that brings back the casual, good time memories of Flakey Jake’s, but with a burger that’s anything but tin can average.
Brought to us by restaurateur Mark DiMartino, Grind has been creating quite a stir for not only their food, but their playfully inventive mascot, Juicy Lucy. Apparently, a naked cartoon woman that’s labeled for butchering like a steer (think rump, round, loin…you get the picture) and donned on everything from skimpy tees to key chains is offending people. Really? Hooters is kicking themselves that they didn’t think of the idea first, driving home the point that shock sells and can’t be taken too seriously, especially in this hell bent economy.
The menu is an offering of appetizers, potatoes and burgers with accompaniments that run the gamut from typical to not so norm. Armed with a clipboard, menu and pencil, we chose Thai Calamari (9.50) and Onion Strings (5.00) as appies. I liked the calamari; it wasn’t overcooked and the sauce had a sweet little tang, but beware of the tempura lime garnish–it packs an unexpected pucker punch. Fried onions were crispy, not greasy and served with a mild cayenne pepper ranch dressing that could have used a little more kick. They also have three styles of fries (4-5.00), including a delicious sweet potato version that I would highly recommend, as well as a chopped salad (8.50) that could serve as a meal in itself. Portion sizes were more than ample for splitting.
Next on the list are burger choices. You have four to choose from, a juicy ground chuck version, nicely seasoned turkey or chicken burgers, or a house made meatless variety. They all start at nine bucks…a bit pricey, especially since the fries aren’t included, but hey, this is gourmet, right? You also have options for choosing buns (the ciabatta was outstanding); cheese that included bleu and pepper jack (+.75); typical toppings like lettuce, tomato and marinated mushrooms (two are included, +.75 for extras); condiments that included several innovative mayonnaise concoctions with the likes of basil and sun dried tomato or ajvar, a roasted red bell pepper and eggplant spread (two included, +.75 for extras); and some heavy hitting premium toppings like fried eggs, applewood smoked bacon, and Napa cabbage 3 pepper slaw (+1.50).
It’s easy to go overboard, but in reality, you can create a very she-she burger for around 12 bucks; still a bit golden for some, but for those that take their specialty burger seriously, cheaper than comparables located on the Strip. I chose the regular beef version; it had a delicate texture and was quite juicy and flavorful, perfect for the ciabatta bun which soaked in the savory flavors. Aged cheddar, the wonderfully smokey bacon, mushrooms and the ajvar mayo took this baby over the top. Sure, I could have added the egg, which would have been sublime, but too much of a good thing can be bad, so I’ll have to save it for next trip.
Grind really is a very nice place to have a superb burger, a beer or glass of wine, or a specialty drink that’s offered in both the restaurant as well as the separate bar area that’s fitted with requisite gaming and flat screen TVs. And although Flakey Jake’s may have been the father of the BYO burger concept, Grind has certainly added some serious gourmet flair. Grind is located at 360 E. Tropicana.
Not Just for Take-Out
Archi’s Thai Bistro
By Aly Wagonseller
Aside from power lunching, I’ve traditionally associated Thai cuisine with take-out cartons and movie night. It could be that, for the most part, the décor at truly exceptional neighborhood Thai restaurants is rarely date night appropriate. Truthfully, a more likely explanation is my complete inability to stop eating this country’s wonderfully flavorful (and spicy) concoctions. An addiction that inevitably results in the dreaded button pop…not something I’d proudly like to display in public. Still, Archi’s Thai Bistro, located at 6345 So. Rainbow, has given me reason to rethink my traditional homeward bound Thai-fest, providing an attractive and comfy place to dine and a friendly staff that’s happy to wrap up the leftovers…even if they’re destined to be devoured on the car ride home.
More upscale than most neighborhood restaurants, Archi’s is a nice sized space that affords a calm, casual and somewhat private dining experience devoid of kitchen clatter or annoying traffic from the take-out crowd. With wood-style floors, a neutral, earth-toned color palette and antique armoires and cabinets, the atmosphere is anything but Asian influenced. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, but merely surprising considering the authenticity of the Archi family’s cuisine. Zagat and Michelin rated, you’ll be hard pressed to find better Thai fare in the city.
This stuff is spicy, so it’s up to you to order the spice level of your liking, in this case from one to ten. This translates as follows: Do NOT order every dish on the top of your spice tolerance level, even if you’re competing for top-spice bragging rights over your dining companion. Not only will you miss out on the many subtle, yet complex flavors indicative of this cuisine, but you’ll inevitably pay later. That being said, the rating system at Archi’s was a bit inconsistent, making it tough to figure out just what the spice intensity was on any given dish we ordered. Pad Thai, ordered at a level 4, was relatively mild, while the Papaya Salad, ordered at a level two, was bordering on noxious. I’m not complaining, as the food was impeccable, I’m just suggesting that you ask your server for his expertise in the matter, considering some ingredients take on spice more aggressively than do others.
We started with the Moo Dadd Deaw (5.95), Tom Yum (6.95) and Papaya Salad (6.95). The Moo’s (a.k.a. Thai sticks) were yummy, caramelized meat morsels served with a tangy hot and sour sauce. The ample bowl of Tom Yum could have easily been a meal in itself. They certainly didn’t skimp on the tender chicken and fresh mushrooms in this tart and fiery broth-based soup–a true bargain on any menu. And the Papaya Salad? Let’s just say this was the first time I’ve had this crunchy, tangy and refreshing salad filled with green papaya matchsticks, crushed peanuts and crunchy green beans all bathed in a dry shrimp, spicy lime dressing. After getting over the confusion of not recognizing papaya that wasn’t orange (hey, I said it was the first time I’d tried this), this was one of my favorite dishes, although next time I’ll order it spice free, a great way to cleanse the palate between other, spiced-up selections.
Entrees include a number of curry, noodle, rice and Thai specialty items. We chose the Chicken Pad Thai (6.95), Spicy Basil Fried Rice with Shrimp (8.95), Panang Curry (6.95), and Pad Kapow (6.95). All entrees were served in rather ample, family style portions, with an impressive amount of meat and exceptionally fresh vegetables that still had their snap. Faves for me included the Panang Curry, a delicate, yet complex coconut milk-based version that whispered (not roared) an earthy spiciness; a humble Pad Kapow which transformed simple hamburger meat into a savory, sweet and spicy comfort food that paired very well with the nutty, sticky rice served alongside; and the Spicy Basil Rice, made with large, tender and perfectly cooked shrimp, and spiked with impossibly crisp veggies and fried, spicy basil leaves–so delish.
Eating Thai food in an actual restaurant has its drawbacks, considering you can’t eat ‘til you drop if you’re to avoid the “roll of shame” out the doorway. But Archi’s makes a good case to get off the couch and savor some truly fabulous Thai cuisine in an upscale, yet decidedly casual eatery in the neighborhood. I’ll just have to keep a fork in the car for the ride home.
Appies with an Edge
Caña Latin Kitchen and Bar
By Aly Wagonseller
There’s something about sophisticated drinks and appetizers served in a vibrant setting that make dining out an experience rather than a hum drum meal. Granted, you might be missing out on gluttonous portion sizes, but the pleasure of nibbling on a wide variety of inspiring flavors while imbibing cutting edge cocktails made with the finest sugar cane based spirits and freshly squeezed juices is simply way more fun. That’s the idea behind Town Square’s newest hip spot, Caña Latin Kitchen and Bar.
Very much a place for the trendy set, Caña will surely attract the young and the beautiful with its dark and sexy interior, ambiguous restroom facilities and pulsating mix of Latin influenced music. But it’s so nicely done that those of us with Gen X and Boomer birth dates will also want in on the fun. The expansive, white onyx bar, indoor/outdoor dining areas and organic touches that include an interesting Kudzu vine ceiling treatment, as well as a psychedelic velvet wall treatment, are nearly as interesting as the food, a combination of creative ceviches, flatbreads and small plate cuisine known as Bocadillos. There’s no slouching in the drink department either, with selections that include the Nacional, an easy-to-down concoction made with smooth, vanilla influenced Kilo Kai rum, a complex Creole Shrubb orange liqueur, and freshly made pineapple and lime juices; the peppery Ultimate Caipirinha, dubbed as “the new mojito”; as well as Sugarcane Sangria, Hemingway’s Blackberry Thyme Margaritas, and imported beers and wine.
I’m a sucker for ceviche, a high quality fish dish that’s similar to sushi in taste but substantially different in texture due to the fish’s treatment with acidic ingredients, usually lime, which renders the fish opaque and firmer than its counterpart. Caña offers a wide range to choose from, including Salmon and Snapper (both $10), as well as a couple of faux renditions for the fish faint of heart. Out of the gate, Caña’s ceviche was not the norm, served in sashimi like slices, a departure from traditional chunky dice, and dressed with much more interesting ingredients than lime alone. Hamachi ($14) was the resounding fave, buttery fish accompanied by the lemony zing of yuzu sauce and an earthy soy “paint-on-the-plate”, then finished with fresh cilantro and a sprinkling of sesame seeds. Halibut ($12) was also tasty, served with chives and a drizzling of fresh coriander oil to liven, but not overpower, the mild fish.
While ceviche is certainly a Latin power dish, Caña also has some interesting items you wouldn’t typically consider South American. If not a bit of a stretch, it’s all in good fun, with playful renditions of Mac & Cheese ($8) made with habanero jack, Chorizo Corn Dogs ($10) accompanied by tangerine-habenero mustard, and a Meatball ($9) whose sauce suspiciously resembled that of the Swedish variety, circa 1960, but with a nice bite of pickled jalapeño to amp it up a notch. More substantial offerings, although still considered small plate, include guava glazed Short Ribs ($12), Lamb Chops with Chimichurri ($14) and the house favorite, Crispy Shrimp ($12). A few flatbread items round out the menu, with a rich, 3 Cheese Flatbread ($10)–made with tangy goat and white cheeses tempered by a layer of honey and agave nectar–a creative standout.
Throughout the meal the service was exceptional. Our waiter was well versed in the flavors and ingredients of each dish we inquired about, and frankly that’s a good thing since you may not know what to expect from a huancaina, aji amarillo or chicharron sauce. What you can expect, though, is dining and drinking that’s fun and sophisticated, full of fresh and well executed food and libations, along with a good dose of “beautiful people” watching. It’s experience dining at its best. Caña is located at 6599 Las Vegas Blvd. in Town Square. For info, call 722-6060.
