Blume: An Eye-Catching Culinary Experience

Blume is on a mission to bring a taste of Strip-style spectacle to the Henderson dining scene. The food, drinks and environment are all designed to be photogenic conversation pieces, in which aesthetics are stressed as much as the sourcing of individual components.

The restaurant, which comes with the subtitle “The Art of Culinary”, is a 6,500-square-foot space on the ground level of an office building in Seven Hills Plaza at 3145 St. Rose Parkway. The dining room makes an immediate impression with dark marble floors, Chanel drapes and imported European chandeliers that sparkle during evening hours. Other eye-catching features include an eight-foot-long virtual aquarium with high-definition images of underwater scenery and accent walls decorated with more than 17,000 silk roses and hydrangeas. If the blue tufted booths and chairs don’t keep your attention throughout the meal, the purple accent lighting will.     

The menu was created by Executive Chef Joseph “JoJo” Saady, who built his reputation catering private meals for celebrities and entertainment industry executives in Los Angeles. When he’s not overseeing Blume in person, the kitchen is in the hands of Jesse Garza, formerly a sous chef at the Trump International Hotel, and Alessandra Madeira, who was chef de cuisine at the now-closed Bratalian in Henderson. The dishes follow a modern American template with a few unexpected surprises thrown in here and there. A good example is the pretzel board appetizer, which isn’t a board (or even a pretzel, really) but more like a braided croissant, served on a plate of creamy Dijon mustard with beer cheese and artichoke dip on the side. Seasoned with a hint of rosemary and soaked in truffle butter, the bread is light, sweet and delicious, but potentially frustrating for those expecting something completely different.

A playful spin on a grilled cheese sandwich is a more rewarding mashup. Instead of Texas Toast, Blume uses its own house-made “Vegas Toast” (darkened with squid ink) to frame layers of gruyere and American cheese for a savory crunch. The presentation isn’t complete until gold flakes are sprinkled on top. The Bao Bun Garden is another appetizer that exceeds expectations. Pork jowl, used in place of butt or belly, is braised and sautéed to order with a honey soy glaze. It’s served on traditional gua bao with mushrooms and pickled cabbage to balance the sweetness of the meat. The dish comes decorated with microgreens and edible flowers—both a recurring theme at the restaurant.   

Blume truly hits its stride with the main courses. Steaks are cooked perfectly, seasoned with little more than salt and pepper. The 36-ounce sharable Tomahawk and 10-ounce filet are worthy bone-in cuts. However, the 12-ounce ribeye is the one that puts on a show, smoked tableside with applewood and hickory. Another highlight is the double bone-in pork chop, brought over from Bratalian by Madeira. The cut is pan-seared with white wine and topped with tomato peppers.

As for drinks, the most compelling cocktails tend to be the most inventive. Squid ink makes its presence felt again in the Grandmaster, a dark combo of Kettle One Orange and citrus flavors with a cloud of coconut foam. The bourbon Manhattan is sweetened with house-made apple syrup and garnished with a lit cinnamon stick.

Blume appears to be sorting out some timing and service issues just weeks after opening, but remains an intriguing concept. It borders on fine dining but has the feel of a local’s hangout, especially when the window between the bar and outdoor patio is left open to circulate a welcome dining room breeze. Perhaps it’s best to give the restaurant an initial shot during happy hour (4-6 p.m. daily) and let your intrigue build from there. Visit bestvegasdining.com to learn more about Blume and to make reservations.