Old School is Back…Sen of Japan

By Aly Wagonseller

Not long ago, there seemed to be a sushi restaurant in every strip mall, on every corner, in just about every nook and cranny of the city. Some, quite frankly, behaving like cheap floozies in the red light district, luring in diners with discounted, all-you-can eat offers, X-rated specialty rolls, and fish so poorly sliced, it literally didn’t cut it. Not that there aren’t decent sushi places that might employ a few of these marketing tactics to stay afloat; I’ll avoid that backlash here and now. I’m just saying that too many neighborhood sushi restaurants have me questioning why I fell in love with this cuisine nearly 30 years ago. Where did the clean flavors and fresh fish, accompanied by sauces that complemented, rather than held their seafood counterpart captive, vanish to?  Have all the sushi chefs that actually know how to purvey quality yellowtail and skillfully slice it, all the while being playfully arrogant of the fact that they do, high tail it to the Strip or beyond? Sen of Japan, located at 8480 W. Desert Inn, has given back hope that old school sushi has not only survived, but is flourishing in a sea of make believe maki.

From all appearances, Sen of Japan might seem like many other local establishments. The requisite red and black contemporary décor, laminate wood plank flooring and glass tile backed sushi bar presenting a modest, yet comfy space to dine within. But, with the help of owner Hiro Nakano, former head chef of sushi heaven on earth, a.k.a. Nobu, and knowledgeable staff like our waitress Tiffany, a sweet girl, expertly adept at explaining everything from the nuances of their particular brand of ponzu to the texture of Mochi ice cream…no easy task I might add…and you’ve got something truly special.

Like Nobu, Sen offers a full range of Japanese cuisine that includes a wide selection of tempura, sumibiyaki (charcoaled skewers, the scallop version being quite tasty), hot fish and meat dishes, as well as specialty rolls and the like. We tried the Black Cod Soy (13.75) opting out of the optional foie gras accompaniment (an extra $9). I mean really, isn’t black cod butter enough? Regardless, the fish was perfectly prepared and artfully plated, treating the eyes as well as the taste buds. I did long for the caramelized characteristics of its miso cousin, as I like a little sweet crunch to contrast with the velvety texture of the fish, but that’s just me.

Hot fish is great but sushi is my game, usually indulging in a roll or two but never passing on the simplistic grandeur sashimi brings to the table.  A version they call Garlic Yellowtail (13.95) was as good as it gets; the thinly shaved fish expertly trimmed for maximum melt-in-your-mouth preeminence. Flavor and textural contrast were brought to the dish via an impossibly crisp garlic chip, spicy Serrano chili slivers and a citrusy yuzu soy sauce that was simple, bright…just plain perfection.  Spider Roll #23 (13.95) is a must, chock full of soft shell crab, cucumber and yamagobo, a pickled root vegetable that added a nice bite, but be sure to treat yourself to the Real Crab Roll with mango, cucumber, tuna and curry sauce (13.75). Unlike sushi rolls that are becoming as weighty and overindulgent as the American waistline, this delicacy is light, perfectly balanced by the sweetness of the mango and feathery texture of the crab, and elevated by the exotic flavors of a wonderful curry mayo sauce; an addition that surprisingly didn’t overpower any of the other ingredients.

In addition to the Mochi ice cream and some homemade sorbets, you’d do well in the dessert department with their amazing Almond Yuzu Franijpan served with Pineapple Sorbet. Be sure to order it early as it takes about 15 minutes to bake onsite.  It’s a worthy ending to a meal filled with old school, clean and honest flavors that Sen of Japan has obviously perfected.  The place fills up fast; to make reservations, call 871-7781.

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Parsley, Sage, Rosemary & Thyme -Cooking with Herbs

By Aly Wagonseller

There’s no better way to add flavor to food, without the addition of salt or added fat, than by tossing in a handful of garden fresh herbs. From the woodsy essence exhibited by an earthy sprig of rosemary, to the licorice undertones so prevalent in the leaves of the tarragon plant, fresh herbs have a way of elevating the simplest of dishes from plain Jane average to vibrant, palate pleasing perfection. 

Still, with the wide array of distinct seasoning that each species maintains, it can be easy to go overboard, using competing or overpowering flavor combinations that result in an unpalatable forest on your plate. You must first know what you’re working with, using pungent varieties more sparingly, and experimenting with flavors that your family finds appealing. 

Basil – One of the most widely used herbs in Italian cuisine, basil has a distinctively peppery, yet sweet flavor profile that’s equally adept as a main salad ingredient as it is in pestos or sauces. Care must be taken that basil is eaten when extremely fresh, as it can become bitter if prematurely chopped.

Parsley – Much more than a pretty garnish, parsley, especially the Italian flat leaf variety, adds a clean, subtle peppery spice that’s perfect for sassing up traditional egg or pasta dishes, as well as adding brightness to creamy dishes that need to lighten up a bit.

Sage – Traditionally used in heavy cream dishes, meats and sausage preparations, sage exhibits a pungent, yet slightly minty flavor that holds up better to heat than most herbs. It’s great when used with creamy sauces and sweet vegetables, including sweet potatoes and squash.

Thyme – Used in many Mediterranean dishes, thyme has a lemony spiciness that marries well with a variety of other herbs, including parsley and rosemary. Wonderful on roasted chicken or roast, the leaves should be peeled from the stock before chopping.

Regardless of what might become your “go to” herb combination, remember that dried herbs are much more concentrated than fresh, about  3/4 to 1 teaspoon dried being the equivalent of  2 to 4 teaspoons of fresh.  Use fresh whenever possible, storing them loosely wrapped in a damp paper towel placed inside a Ziplock bag filled with air. And try growing your own! It makes for a fast and convenient way to snip flavor into your next meal!

Bacon-Herb Wrapped Pork Tenderloin

Serves 4

 1 head garlic, top sliced off

3-4 tbsp olive oil, divided

2 pork tenderloins (about 1 to 1 1/2 pound each) trimmed of excess fat

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tbsp chopped fresh rosemary

12 fresh sage leaves, chopped

1 tbsp chopped fresh thyme

12 1/4-inch thick slices bacon

Preheat oven to 300 degrees F. Place garlic in a small ramekin, drizzle with 1-tbsp olive oil, and wrap in foil. Bake until soft, about 45 minutes. When cool enough to handle, squeeze garlic flesh from head into a small bowl.

Arrange tenderloins on work surface. Rub the top of each tenderloin with 1/2 of the roasted garlic and season with salt and pepper. Mix together the herbs and scatter half of the mix over the garlic on each tenderloin. Wrap 6 strips of bacon around each tenderloin and tie bacon in place with kitchen twine.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Heat remaining oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Sear the tenderloins until golden brown on all sides. Transfer seared tenderloins to medium roasting pan; place in the oven and cook to medium doneness about 8 to10 minutes. Transfer tenderloins to cutting board and let stand 10 minutes. Remove twine before carving.   Recipe courtesy Bobby Flay.

Chicken and Tabbouleh Salad

Serves 6-8

1 1/2 cups boiling water

1 cup bulgur wheat

1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice (2 lemons)

Olive oil

Kosher salt

2 chicken breasts, bone in, skin on

Freshly ground black pepper

1 cup minced scallions, white and green parts (1 bunch)

1 cup chopped fresh mint leaves (2 bunches)

1 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley (1 bunch)

1 hothouse cucumber, unpeeled, halved lengthwise, seeded, and medium-diced

2 cups halved cherry tomatoes

 Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

 In a heat-proof bowl, pour the boiling water over the bulgur wheat. Add the lemon juice, 1/4 cup olive oil, and 1 1/2 tsp of salt. Stir. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and allow the bulgur to stand at room temperature for about 1 hour.

Place the chicken breasts on a baking sheet and rub them with olive oil. Sprinkle liberally with salt and pepper. Roast for 35 to 40 minutes, until just cooked. Set aside until cool enough to handle.

Remove the chicken meat from the bones and discard the skin. Cut the chicken into medium dice and add to the bulgar wheat / lemon mixture. Add the scallions, mint, parsley, cucumber and tomatoes. Season to taste and serve immediately, or cover and refrigerate. The flavors will improve as it chills.  Recipe courtesy of Ina Garten.

Rosemary Shrimp with Mint Pesto Dipping Sauce

Serves 4

1/2 cup pine nuts, toasted

5  chopped garlic cloves, divided

2 tbsp (packed) feta cheese

2 tbsp (packed) Parmesan cheese

1 tbsp coarsely chopped jalapeño 

1/2 tsp salt

1/2 tsp black pepper

2 cups (packed) fresh mint leaves

5 tbsp fresh lemon juice, divided

1/3 cup + 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, divided

24 large uncooked shrimp, peeled, deveined, tails left intact

1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley

24 4-inch-long woody rosemary sprigs

For mint pesto, combine nuts, 3 cloves garlic, cheeses, jalapeño, salt and pepper in a food processor. Using on/off turns, process until mixture is smooth. Add mint leaves and lemon juice; process until smooth, stopping occasionally to scrape down sides of bowl. Gradually add oil and process until mint pesto is smooth and creamy. (Can be made 1 day ahead; cover and refrigerate.)

Preheat broiler. Sprinkle shrimp with salt and pepper. Whisk oil, garlic, and parsley in medium bowl to blend. Add shrimp; toss to coat. Let stand at room temperature 15 minutes. Arrange shrimp in single layer on broiler pan. Broil until opaque in center, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer to large bowl; sprinkle with lemon juice and toss with 1/2 cup mint pesto. Starting at base end of rosemary, skewer 1 shrimp on each sprig. Arrange on platter and serve.

Mango-Radicchio Caprese with Basil Vinaigrette

Serves 4

1/3 cup chopped fresh basil plus 8 whole large basil leaves

3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

2 tbsp white balsamic vinegar

8 radicchio leaves, thick ends trimmed

2 large mangoes, peeled, halved, thinly sliced

8 1/4-inch-thick slices fresh mozzarella cheese (from one 8-ounce ball)

 Blend chopped basil, oil, and vinegar in mini processor until most of basil is pureed. Season with salt and pepper.

Overlap radicchio, mangoes, cheese, and basil leaves on plates. Drizzle with vinaigrette. Serve, passing remaining vinaigrette.  Recipe from Epicurious.com.

Car Seat Check for Safety

Drs. Joey Adashek and Paul Wilkes of Desert Perinatal Associates spend their days caring for and dispensing invaluable advice to women with child. Wanting to give equal attention to certain precautions once the baby is born, they’ve recently partnered up with Safe Kids Clark County, a nonprofit organization dedicated to the prevention of injury to children. 

 In the U.S., car crashes are the leading cause of death for kids under the age of 14. Research shows that the use of a properly installed car seat can reduce the risk of death by 71% for infants and 54% for children ages 1 to 4. Additional research shows that although 96% of parents believe they install and use their car seats correctly, nearly 73% of car seats are misused.

Starting in mid-April, the good doctors began sending “car seat prescriptions” home with new parents to spring load their campaign for child safety. With the help of Safe Kids Clark County, they’ll also be conducting car seat checks at Belly Bliss/Desert Perinatal Associates (5761 S. Fort Apache Rd.) on the 4^th Saturday of each month from 9 a.m.-noon. The cost is $20, but you just can’t really put a price on the knowledge that your child is safe, can you? For more information, visit www.desertperinatalassociates.com or www.safekidsclarkcounty.org.

Entertainment Worth Saving – Super Summer Theatre

By Aly Wagonseller

It’s been a tough year for state legislators trying to balance a budget fraught with revenue losses from a declining tax base.  So tough that they considered closing down several state parks, including Spring Mountain Ranch, the charming, country getaway that houses some of the best community theatre in the state. No wine?  No cheese?  No Super Summer Theatre under the stars?  After 34 seasons, a crowd that’s gone from barely noticeable to more than 35,000 patrons per year, and substantial upgrades to this modest, yet capable facility, Super Summer Theatre almost fell victim to an economic empty pot; one, some say, has nary a rainbow in sight. Luckily, they’ve survived a near cultural catastrophe, returning with another season of fanciful productions, unparalleled talent, and what many consider a much needed respite from the glitz and fast paced pulse of daily Vegas living.

Jump starting this year’s agenda is P.S. Productions’ rendition of Roald Dahl’s  Willy Wonka.  Talented local producer Philip Shelburne, who tackled last year’s Buddy Holly Story, is back with this timeless tale about the whacky, inner workings of eccentric candy tycoon Willy Wonka and a poor, yet kind hearted boy destined to be his successor, little Charlie Bucket. Adults will love the irony and quick wit of Dahl’s intelligent writing style, while kids will delight in the fast paced storyline and whimsical collection of characters, including the infamous Oompa Loompas.  Opening night for the production is June 9^th, with subsequent performances running each Wednesday-Saturday evening through June 26^th.

Jazzing things up in the month of July, audiences are transported back to the 1920s and 30s Manhattan club scene in Stage Door Entertainment’s Ain”t Misbehavin”.  Named after the award winning Fats Waller tune, the play serves as a tribute to the black musicians of the era who helped to spurn a cultural revolution of creativity and ethnic pride known as the Harlem Renaissance.  Piano playin’, rowdy songs and exuberant performances that exude Waller’s playful attitude on life make for a finger snappin’, toe tappin’ jivefest.   The production runs each Wednesday-Saturday night from July 7^th through July 24^th.

The season rounds out with Signature Productions’ adaptation of Damn Yankees, a modernized retelling of the Faust, “sell your soul to the devil” legend set on the baseball fields of the 1950s; a time when everyone was gunning to beat the Yankees!  Famous tunes include the campy “Whatever Lola Wants, Lola Gets”, sung by the devil’s tempting seductress of the same name, and the inspirational “You Gotta Have Heart”.  Performances start August 11^th.  The British National Theatre of America’s The Foreigner will also be held in September.  Visit www.SuperSummerTheatre.com for ticket information and schedules.

McDonald’s MAC Grant

The fast food conglomerate behind the famous golden arches is proving to have more for the community than just Big Macs, Fillets of Fish, Quarter Pounders and French fries. Through a special grant program, the Greater Las Vegas McDonald’s Operator Association is helping local teachers in Clark County create unique and educational learning experiences for their students.

“We are proud to offer this much needed program to local communities and their school,” says James Vance, President of the local McDonald’s Owner/Operator Association. McDonald’s MAC Grant program is available to all Clark County Schools grades K-8^th and gives local teachers an opportunity to apply for up to $500 to help fund an activity that gives the students a unique and interesting learning experience they may not otherwise be able to afford.

So far, five grants have been awarded totaling over $2000 for educational tools such as a Mindstorms NXT robotics kit to simulate ocean exploration, and solar system themed Monopoly style games combining real world mathematical skills and science based lessons. By the end of 2010, McDonald’s program will award 20 MAC Grants for a total of $10,000. We’re lovin’ it. Visit www.mcdonalds.com for more info.